University of Botswana History Department
Electronic texts

David Livingstone;
Missionary Travels

Contents Page

See below for full original table of contents

Introduction etc. | Chapter 1 | Chapter 2 | Chapter 3 | Chapter 4 | Chapter 5 | Chapter 6 | Chapter 7 | Chapter 8 | Chapter 9 | Chapter 10 | Chapter 11 | Chapter 12 | Chapter 13 | Chapter 14 | Chapter 15 | Chapter 16 | Chapter 17 | Chapter 18 | Chapter 19 | Chapter 20 | Chapter 21 | Chapter 22 | Chapter 23 | Chapter 24 | Chapter 25 | Chapter 26 | Chapter 27 | Chapter 28 | Chapter 29 | Chapter 30 | Chapter 31 | Chapter 32 | Appendices etc.

History Home Page  |  Site Index  |  Electronic texts index

Contents.

Introduction.
  Personal Sketch -- Highland Ancestors -- Family Traditions --
  Grandfather removes to the Lowlands -- Parents -- Early Labors and Efforts
  -- Evening School -- Love of Reading -- Religious Impressions --
  Medical Education -- Youthful Travels -- Geology -- Mental Discipline --
  Study in Glasgow -- London Missionary Society -- Native Village --
  Medical Diploma -- Theological Studies -- Departure for Africa --
  No Claim to Literary Accomplishments.

Chapter 1.
  The Bakwain Country -- Study of the Language -- Native Ideas
  regarding Comets -- Mabotsa Station -- A Lion Encounter --
  Virus of the Teeth of Lions -- Names of the Bechuana Tribes --
  Sechele -- His Ancestors -- Obtains the Chieftainship --
  His Marriage and Government -- The Kotla -- First public Religious Services
  -- Sechele's Questions -- He Learns to Read -- Novel mode
  for Converting his Tribe -- Surprise at their Indifference --
  Polygamy -- Baptism of Sechele -- Opposition of the Natives --
  Purchase Land at Chonuane -- Relations with the People --
  Their Intelligence -- Prolonged Drought -- Consequent Trials --
  Rain-medicine -- God's Word blamed -- Native Reasoning -- Rain-maker --
  Dispute between Rain Doctor and Medical Doctor -- The Hunting Hopo --
  Salt or animal Food a necessary of Life -- Duties of a Missionary.

Chapter 2.
  The Boers -- Their Treatment of the Natives -- Seizure of native Children
  for Slaves -- English Traders -- Alarm of the Boers -- Native Espionage --
  The Tale of the Cannon -- The Boers threaten Sechele --
  In violation of Treaty, they stop English Traders and expel Missionaries --
  They attack the Bakwains -- Their Mode of Fighting --
  The Natives killed and the School-children carried into Slavery --
  Destruction of English Property -- African Housebuilding and Housekeeping --
  Mode of Spending the Day -- Scarcity of Food -- Locusts -- Edible Frogs --
  Scavenger Beetle -- Continued Hostility of the Boers -- The Journey north --
  Preparations -- Fellow-travelers -- The Kalahari Desert --
  Vegetation -- Watermelons -- The Inhabitants -- The Bushmen --
  Their nomad Mode of Life -- Appearance -- The Bakalahari --
  Their Love for Agriculture and for domestic Animals -- Timid Character --
  Mode of obtaining Water -- Female Water-suckers -- The Desert --
  Water hidden.

Chapter 3.
  Departure from Kolobeng, 1st June, 1849 -- Companions -- Our Route --
  Abundance of Grass -- Serotli, a Fountain in the Desert --
  Mode of digging Wells -- The Eland -- Animals of the Desert --
  The Hyaena -- The Chief Sekomi -- Dangers -- The wandering Guide --
  Cross Purposes -- Slow Progress -- Want of Water -- Capture of a Bushwoman
  -- The Salt-pan at Nchokotsa -- The Mirage -- Reach the River Zouga --
  The Quakers of Africa -- Discovery of Lake Ngami, 1st August, 1849 --
  Its Extent -- Small Depth of Water -- Position as the Reservoir
  of a great River System -- The Bamangwato and their Chief --
  Desire to visit Sebituane, the Chief of the Makololo --
  Refusal of Lechulatebe to furnish us with Guides --
  Resolve to return to the Cape -- The Banks of the Zouga -- Pitfalls --
  Trees of the District -- Elephants -- New Species of Antelope --
  Fish in the Zouga.

Chapter 4.
  Leave Kolobeng again for the Country of Sebituane -- Reach the Zouga --
  The Tsetse -- A Party of Englishmen -- Death of Mr. Rider --
  Obtain Guides -- Children fall sick with Fever -- Relinquish the Attempt
  to reach Sebituane -- Mr. Oswell's Elephant-hunting --
  Return to Kolobeng -- Make a third Start thence --
  Reach Nchokotsa -- Salt-pans -- "Links", or Springs -- Bushmen --
  Our Guide Shobo -- The Banajoa -- An ugly Chief -- The Tsetse --
  Bite fatal to domestic Animals, but harmless to wild Animals and Man --
  Operation of the Poison -- Losses caused by it -- The Makololo --
  Our Meeting with Sebituane -- Sketch of his Career --
  His Courage and Conquests -- Manoeuvres of the Batoka -- He outwits them
  -- His Wars with the Matebele -- Predictions of a native Prophet --
  Successes of the Makololo -- Renewed Attacks of the Matebele --
  The Island of Loyelo -- Defeat of the Matebele -- Sebituane's Policy --
  His Kindness to Strangers and to the Poor -- His sudden Illness and Death --
  Succeeded by his Daughter -- Her Friendliness to us -- Discovery,
  in June, 1851, of the Zambesi flowing in the Centre of the Continent --
  Its Size -- The Mambari -- The Slave-trade -- Determine to send Family
  to England -- Return to the Cape in April, 1852 -- Safe Transit through
  the Caffre Country during Hostilities -- Need of a "Special Correspondent"
  -- Kindness of the London Missionary Society -- Assistance afforded
  by the Astronomer Royal at the Cape.

Chapter 5.
  Start in June, 1852, on the last and longest Journey from Cape Town --
  Companions -- Wagon-traveling -- Physical Divisions of Africa --
  The Eastern, Central, and Western Zones -- The Kalahari Desert --
  Its Vegetation -- Increasing Value of the Interior for Colonization --
  Our Route -- Dutch Boers -- Their Habits -- Sterile Appearance
  of the District -- Failure of Grass -- Succeeded by other Plants --
  Vines -- Animals -- The Boers as Farmers -- Migration of Springbucks --
  Wariness of Animals -- The Orange River -- Territory of
  the Griquas and Bechuanas -- The Griquas -- The Chief Waterboer --
  His wise and energetic Government -- His Fidelity -- Ill-considered Measures
  of the Colonial Government in regard to Supplies of Gunpowder --
  Success of the Missionaries among the Griquas and Bechuanas --
  Manifest Improvement of the native Character -- Dress of the Natives --
  A full-dress Costume -- A Native's Description of the Natives --
  Articles of Commerce in the Country of the Bechuanas --
  Their Unwillingness to learn, and Readiness to criticise.

Chapter 6.
  Kuruman -- Its fine Fountain -- Vegetation of the District --
  Remains of ancient Forests -- Vegetable Poison --
  The Bible translated by Mr. Moffat -- Capabilities of the Language --
  Christianity among the Natives -- The Missionaries should extend
  their Labors more beyond the Cape Colony -- Model Christians --
  Disgraceful Attack of the Boers on the Bakwains -- Letter from Sechele --
  Details of the Attack -- Numbers of School-children carried away
  into Slavery -- Destruction of House and Property at Kolobeng --
  The Boers vow Vengeance against me -- Consequent Difficulty of getting
  Servants to accompany me on my Journey -- Start in November, 1852 --
  Meet Sechele on his way to England to obtain Redress from the Queen --
  He is unable to proceed beyond the Cape -- Meet Mr. Macabe
  on his Return from Lake Ngami -- The hot Wind of the Desert --
  Electric State of the Atmosphere -- Flock of Swifts --
  Reach Litubaruba -- The Cave Lepelole -- Superstitions regarding it --
  Impoverished State of the Bakwains -- Retaliation on the Boers --
  Slavery -- Attachment of the Bechuanas to Children --
  Hydrophobia unknown -- Diseases of the Bakwains few in number --
  Yearly Epidemics -- Hasty Burials -- Ophthalmia -- Native Doctors --
  Knowledge of Surgery at a very low Ebb -- Little Attendance given to Women
  at their Confinements -- The "Child Medicine" -- Salubrity of the Climate
  well adapted for Invalids suffering from pulmonary Complaints.

Chapter 7.
  Departure from the Country of the Bakwains -- Large black Ant --
  Land Tortoises -- Diseases of wild Animals -- Habits of old Lions --
  Cowardice of the Lion -- Its Dread of a Snare -- Major Vardon's Note --
  The Roar of the Lion resembles the Cry of the Ostrich --
  Seldom attacks full-grown Animals -- Buffaloes and Lions --
  Mice -- Serpents -- Treading on one -- Venomous and harmless Varieties --
  Fascination -- Sekomi's Ideas of Honesty -- Ceremony of the Sechu for Boys
  -- The Boyale for young Women -- Bamangwato Hills -- The Unicorn's Pass --
  The Country beyond -- Grain -- Scarcity of Water -- Honorable Conduct
  of English Gentlemen -- Gordon Cumming's hunting Adventures --
  A Word of Advice for young Sportsmen -- Bushwomen drawing Water --
  Ostrich -- Silly Habit -- Paces -- Eggs -- Food.

Chapter 8.
  Effects of Missionary Efforts -- Belief in the Deity --
  Ideas of the Bakwains on Religion -- Departure from their Country --
  Salt-pans -- Sour Curd -- Nchokotsa -- Bitter Waters --
  Thirst suffered by the wild Animals -- Wanton Cruelty in Hunting --
  Ntwetwe -- Mowana-trees -- Their extraordinary Vitality --
  The Mopane-tree -- The Morala -- The Bushmen -- Their Superstitions --
  Elephant-hunting -- Superiority of civilized over barbarous Sportsmen --
  The Chief Kaisa -- His Fear of Responsibility -- Beauty of the Country
  at Unku -- The Mohonono Bush -- Severe Labor in cutting our Way --
  Party seized with Fever -- Escape of our Cattle --
  Bakwain Mode of recapturing them -- Vagaries of sick Servants --
  Discovery of grape-bearing Vines -- An Ant-eater --
  Difficulty of passing through the Forest -- Sickness of my Companion --
  The Bushmen -- Their Mode of destroying Lions -- Poisons --
  The solitary Hill -- A picturesque Valley -- Beauty of the Country --
  Arrive at the Sanshureh River -- The flooded Prairies --
  A pontooning Expedition -- A night Bivouac -- The Chobe --
  Arrive at the Village of Moremi -- Surprise of the Makololo
  at our sudden Appearance -- Cross the Chobe on our way to Linyanti.

Chapter 9.
  Reception at Linyanti -- The court Herald -- Sekeletu obtains
  the Chieftainship from his Sister -- Mpepe's Plot -- Slave-trading Mambari
  -- Their sudden Flight -- Sekeletu narrowly escapes Assassination --
  Execution of Mpepe -- The Courts of Law -- Mode of trying Offenses --
  Sekeletu's Reason for not learning to read the Bible --
  The Disposition made of the Wives of a deceased Chief --
  Makololo Women -- They work but little -- Employ Serfs --
  Their Drink, Dress, and Ornaments -- Public Religious Services in the Kotla
  -- Unfavorable Associations of the place -- Native Doctors --
  Proposals to teach the Makololo to read -- Sekeletu's Present --
  Reason for accepting it -- Trading in Ivory -- Accidental Fire --
  Presents for Sekeletu -- Two Breeds of native Cattle --
  Ornamenting the Cattle -- The Women and the Looking-glass --
  Mode of preparing the Skins of Oxen for Mantles and for Shields --
  Throwing the Spear.

Chapter 10.
  The Fever -- Its Symptoms -- Remedies of the native Doctors --
  Hospitality of Sekeletu and his People -- One of their Reasons for Polygamy
  -- They cultivate largely -- The Makalaka or subject Tribes --
  Sebituane's Policy respecting them -- Their Affection for him --
  Products of the Soil -- Instrument of Culture -- The Tribute --
  Distributed by the Chief -- A warlike Demonstration --
  Lechulatebe's Provocations -- The Makololo determine to punish him --
  The Bechuanas -- Meaning of the Term -- Three Divisions of the great
  Family of South Africans.

Chapter 11.
  Departure from Linyanti for Sesheke -- Level Country -- Ant-hills --
  Wild Date-trees -- Appearance of our Attendants on the March --
  The Chief's Guard -- They attempt to ride on Ox-back --
  Vast Herds of the new Antelopes, Leches, and Nakongs --
  The native way of hunting them -- Reception at the Villages --
  Presents of Beer and Milk -- Eating with the Hand --
  The Chief provides the Oxen for Slaughter -- Social Mode of Eating --
  The Sugar-cane -- Sekeletu's novel Test of Character --
  Cleanliness of Makololo Huts -- Their Construction and Appearance --
  The Beds -- Cross the Leeambye -- Aspect of this part of the Country --
  The small Antelope Tianyane unknown in the South -- Hunting on foot --
  An Eland.

Chapter 12.
  Procure Canoes and ascend the Leeambye -- Beautiful Islands --
  Winter Landscape -- Industry and Skill of the Banyeti --
  Rapids -- Falls of Gonye -- Tradition -- Annual Inundations --
  Fertility of the great Barotse Valley -- Execution of two Conspirators --
  The Slave-dealer's Stockade -- Naliele, the Capital,
  built on an artificial Mound -- Santuru, a great Hunter --
  The Barotse Method of commemorating any remarkable Event --
  Better Treatment of Women -- More religious Feeling -- Belief in
  a future State, and in the Existence of spiritual Beings -- Gardens --
  Fish, Fruit, and Game -- Proceed to the Limits of the Barotse Country --
  Sekeletu provides Rowers and a Herald -- The River and Vicinity --
  Hippopotamus-hunters -- No healthy Location -- Determine to go to Loanda --
  Buffaloes, Elands, and Lions above Libonta -- Interview with the Mambari --
  Two Arabs from Zanzibar -- Their Opinion of the Portuguese and the English
  -- Reach the Town of Ma-Sekeletu -- Joy of the People
  at the first Visit of their Chief -- Return to Sesheke -- Heathenism.

Chapter 13.
  Preliminary Arrangements for the Journey -- A Picho -- Twenty-seven Men
  appointed to accompany me to the West -- Eagerness of the Makololo
  for direct Trade with the Coast -- Effects of Fever -- A Makololo Question
  -- The lost Journal -- Reflections -- The Outfit for the Journey --
  11th November, 1853, leave Linyanti, and embark on the Chobe --
  Dangerous Hippopotami -- Banks of Chobe -- Trees -- The Course of the River
  -- The Island Mparia at the Confluence of the Chobe and the Leeambye --
  Anecdote -- Ascend the Leeambye -- A Makalaka Mother defies the Authority
  of the Makololo Head Man at Sesheke -- Punishment of Thieves --
  Observance of the new Moon -- Public Addresses at Sesheke --
  Attention of the People -- Results -- Proceed up the River --
  The Fruit which yields `Nux vomica' -- Other Fruits -- The Rapids --
  Birds -- Fish -- Hippopotami and their Young.

Chapter 14.
  Increasing Beauty of the Country -- Mode of spending the Day --
  The People and the Falls of Gonye -- A Makololo Foray -- A second prevented,
  and Captives delivered up -- Politeness and Liberality of the People --
  The Rains -- Present of Oxen -- The fugitive Barotse --
  Sekobinyane's Misgovernment -- Bee-eaters and other Birds --
  Fresh-water Sponges -- Current -- Death from a Lion's Bite at Libonta --
  Continued Kindness -- Arrangements for spending the Night
  during the Journey -- Cooking and Washing -- Abundance of animal Life --
  Different Species of Birds -- Water-fowl -- Egyptian Geese --
  Alligators -- Narrow Escape of one of my Men -- Superstitious Feelings
  respecting the Alligator -- Large Game -- The most vulnerable Spot --
  Gun Medicine -- A Sunday -- Birds of Song -- Depravity; its Treatment --
  Wild Fruits -- Green Pigeons -- Shoals of Fish -- Hippopotami.

Chapter 15.
  Message to Masiko, the Barotse Chief, regarding the Captives --
  Navigation of the Leeambye -- Capabilities of this District --
  The Leeba -- Flowers and Bees -- Buffalo-hunt -- Field for a Botanist --
  Young Alligators; their savage Nature -- Suspicion of the Balonda --
  Sekelenke's Present -- A Man and his two Wives -- Hunters --
  Message from Manenko, a female Chief -- Mambari Traders -- A Dream --
  Sheakondo and his People -- Teeth-filing -- Desire for Butter --
  Interview with Nyamoana, another female Chief -- Court Etiquette --
  Hair versus Wool -- Increase of Superstition -- Arrival of Manenko;
  her Appearance and Husband -- Mode of Salutation -- Anklets --
  Embassy, with a Present from Masiko -- Roast Beef -- Manioc --
  Magic Lantern -- Manenko an accomplished Scold:  compels us to wait --
  Unsuccessful Zebra-hunt.

Chapter 16.
  Nyamoana's Present -- Charms -- Manenko's pedestrian Powers -- An Idol --
  Balonda Arms -- Rain -- Hunger -- Palisades -- Dense Forests --
  Artificial Beehives -- Mushrooms -- Villagers lend the Roofs of their Houses
  -- Divination and Idols -- Manenko's Whims -- A night Alarm --
  Shinte's Messengers and Present -- The proper Way to approach a Village --
  A Merman -- Enter Shinte's Town:  its Appearance --
  Meet two half-caste Slave-traders -- The Makololo scorn them --
  The Balonda real Negroes -- Grand Reception from Shinte --
  His Kotla -- Ceremony of Introduction -- The Orators -- Women --
  Musicians and Musical Instruments -- A disagreeable Request --
  Private Interviews with Shinte -- Give him an Ox -- Fertility of Soil --
  Manenko's new Hut -- Conversation with Shinte -- Kolimbota's Proposal --
  Balonda's Punctiliousness -- Selling Children -- Kidnapping --
  Shinte's Offer of a Slave -- Magic Lantern -- Alarm of Women --
  Delay -- Sambanza returns intoxicated -- The last and greatest
  Proof of Shinte's Friendship.

Chapter 17.
  Leave Shinte -- Manioc Gardens -- Mode of preparing the poisonous kind --
  Its general Use -- Presents of Food -- Punctiliousness of the Balonda --
  Their Idols and Superstition -- Dress of the Balonda --
  Villages beyond Lonaje -- Cazembe -- Our Guides and the Makololo --
  Night Rains -- Inquiries for English cotton Goods -- Intemese's Fiction --
  Visit from an old Man -- Theft -- Industry of our Guide --
  Loss of Pontoon -- Plains covered with Water -- Affection of the Balonda
  for their Mothers -- A Night on an Island -- The Grass on the Plains --
  Source of the Rivers -- Loan of the Roofs of Huts -- A Halt --
  Fertility of the Country through which the Lokalueje flows --
  Omnivorous Fish -- Natives' Mode of catching them --
  The Village of a Half-brother of Katema, his Speech and Present --
  Our Guide's Perversity -- Mozenkwa's pleasant Home and Family --
  Clear Water of the flooded Rivers -- A Messenger from Katema --
  Quendende's Village:  his Kindness -- Crop of Wool --
  Meet People from the Town of Matiamvo -- Fireside Talk --
  Matiamvo's Character and Conduct -- Presentation at Katema's Court:
  his Present, good Sense, and Appearance -- Interview on the following Day --
  Cattle -- A Feast and a Makololo Dance -- Arrest of a Fugitive --
  Dignified old Courtier -- Katema's lax Government --
  Cold Wind from the North -- Canaries and other singing Birds --
  Spiders, their Nests and Webs -- Lake Dilolo -- Tradition --
  Sagacity of Ants.

Chapter 18.
  The Watershed between the northern and southern Rivers -- A deep Valley --
  Rustic Bridge -- Fountains on the Slopes of the Valleys --
  Village of Kabinje -- Good Effects of the Belief in the Power of Charms --
  Demand for Gunpowder and English Calico -- The Kasai -- Vexatious Trick --
  Want of Food -- No Game -- Katende's unreasonable Demand --
  A grave Offense -- Toll-bridge Keeper -- Greedy Guides --
  Flooded Valleys -- Swim the Nyuana Loke -- Prompt Kindness of my Men --
  Makololo Remarks on the rich uncultivated Valleys --
  Difference in the Color of Africans -- Reach a Village of the Chiboque --
  The Head Man's impudent Message -- Surrounds our Encampment
  with his Warriors -- The Pretense -- Their Demand -- Prospect of a Fight --
  Way in which it was averted -- Change our Path -- Summer --
  Fever -- Beehives and the Honey-guide -- Instinct of Trees --
  Climbers -- The Ox Sinbad -- Absence of Thorns in the Forests --
  Plant peculiar to a forsaken Garden -- Bad Guides --
  Insubordination suppressed -- Beset by Enemies -- A Robber Party --
  More Troubles -- Detained by Ionga Panza -- His Village --
  Annoyed by Bangala Traders -- My Men discouraged --
  Their Determination and Precaution.

Chapter 19.
  Guides prepaid -- Bark Canoes -- Deserted by Guides --
  Mistakes respecting the Coanza -- Feelings of freed Slaves --
  Gardens and Villages -- Native Traders -- A Grave -- Valley of the Quango --
  Bamboo -- White Larvae used as Food -- Bashinje Insolence --
  A posing Question -- The Chief Sansawe -- His Hostility --
  Pass him safely -- The River Quango -- Chief's mode of dressing his Hair --
  Opposition -- Opportune Aid by Cypriano -- His generous Hospitality --
  Ability of Half-castes to read and write -- Books and Images --
  Marauding Party burned in the Grass -- Arrive at Cassange -- A good Supper
  -- Kindness of Captain Neves -- Portuguese Curiosity and Questions --
  Anniversary of the Resurrection -- No Prejudice against Color --
  Country around Cassange -- Sell Sekeletu's Ivory -- Makololo's Surprise
  at the high Price obtained -- Proposal to return Home, and Reasons --
  Soldier-guide -- Hill Kasala -- Tala Mungongo, Village of --
  Civility of Basongo -- True Negroes -- A Field of Wheat --
  Carriers -- Sleeping-places -- Fever -- Enter District of Ambaca --
  Good Fruits of Jesuit Teaching -- The `Tampan'; its Bite --
  Universal Hospitality of the Portuguese -- A Tale of the Mambari --
  Exhilarating Effects of Highland Scenery -- District of Golungo Alto --
  Want of good Roads -- Fertility -- Forests of gigantic Timber --
  Native Carpenters -- Coffee Estate -- Sterility of Country near the Coast --
  Mosquitoes -- Fears of the Makololo -- Welcome by Mr. Gabriel to Loanda.

Chapter 20.
  Continued Sickness -- Kindness of the Bishop of Angola
  and her Majesty's Officers -- Mr. Gabriel's unwearied Hospitality --
  Serious Deportment of the Makololo -- They visit Ships of War --
  Politeness of the Officers and Men -- The Makololo attend Mass
  in the Cathedral -- Their Remarks -- Find Employment
  in collecting Firewood and unloading Coal -- Their superior Judgment
  respecting Goods -- Beneficial Influence of the Bishop of Angola --
  The City of St. Paul de Loanda -- The Harbor -- Custom-house --
  No English Merchants -- Sincerity of the Portuguese Government
  in suppressing the Slave-trade -- Convict Soldiers --
  Presents from Bishop and Merchants for Sekeletu -- Outfit -- Leave Loanda
  20th September, 1854 -- Accompanied by Mr. Gabriel as far as Icollo i Bengo
  -- Sugar Manufactory -- Geology of this part of the Country --
  Women spinning Cotton -- Its Price -- Native Weavers -- Market-places --
  Cazengo; its Coffee Plantations -- South American Trees --
  Ruins of Iron Foundry -- Native Miners -- The Banks of the Lucalla --
  Cottages with Stages -- Tobacco-plants -- Town of Massangano --
  Sugar and Rice -- Superior District for Cotton -- Portuguese Merchants
  and foreign Enterprise -- Ruins -- The Fort and its ancient Guns --
  Former Importance of Massangano -- Fires -- The Tribe Kisama --
  Peculiar Variety of Domestic Fowl -- Coffee Plantations --
  Return to Golungo Alto -- Self-complacency of the Makololo --
  Fever -- Jaundice -- Insanity.

Chapter 21.
  Visit a deserted Convent -- Favorable Report of Jesuits and their Teaching
  -- Gradations of native Society -- Punishment of Thieves --
  Palm-toddy; its baneful Effects -- Freemasons -- Marriages and Funerals --
  Litigation -- Mr. Canto's Illness -- Bad Behavior of his Slaves --
  An Entertainment -- Ideas on Free Labor -- Loss of American Cotton-seed --
  Abundance of Cotton in the country -- Sickness of Sekeletu's Horse --
  Eclipse of the Sun -- Insects which distill Water --
  Experiments with them -- Proceed to Ambaca -- Sickly Season --
  Office of Commandant -- Punishment of official Delinquents --
  Present from Mr. Schut of Loanda -- Visit Pungo Andongo --
  Its good Pasturage, Grain, Fruit, etc. -- The Fort and columnar Rocks --
  The Queen of Jinga -- Salubrity of Pungo Andongo -- Price of a Slave --
  A Merchant-prince -- His Hospitality -- Hear of the Loss of my Papers
  in "Forerunner" -- Narrow Escape from an Alligator --
  Ancient Burial-places -- Neglect of Agriculture in Angola --
  Manioc the staple Product -- Its Cheapness -- Sickness --
  Friendly Visit from a colored Priest -- The Prince of Congo --
  No Priests in the Interior of Angola.

Chapter 22.
  Leave Pungo Andongo -- Extent of Portuguese Power --
  Meet Traders and Carriers -- Red Ants; their fierce Attack;
  Usefulness; Numbers -- Descend the Heights of Tala Mungongo --
  Fruit-trees in the Valley of Cassange -- Edible Muscle --
  Birds -- Cassange Village -- Quinine and Cathory --
  Sickness of Captain Neves' Infant -- A Diviner thrashed --
  Death of the Child -- Mourning -- Loss of Life from the Ordeal --
  Wide-spread Superstitions -- The Chieftainship -- Charms --
  Receive Copies of the "Times" -- Trading Pombeiros --
  Present for Matiamvo -- Fever after westerly Winds -- Capabilities of Angola
  for producing the raw Materials of English Manufacture --
  Trading Parties with Ivory -- More Fever -- A Hyaena's Choice --
  Makololo Opinion of the Portuguese -- Cypriano's Debt -- A Funeral --
  Dread of disembodied Spirits -- Beautiful Morning Scenes --
  Crossing the Quango -- Ambakistas called "The Jews of Angola" --
  Fashions of the Bashinje -- Approach the Village of Sansawe --
  His Idea of Dignity -- The Pombeiros' Present -- Long Detention --
  A Blow on the Beard -- Attacked in a Forest -- Sudden Conversion
  of a fighting Chief to Peace Principles by means of a Revolver --
  No Blood shed in consequence -- Rate of Traveling -- Slave Women --
  Way of addressing Slaves -- Their thievish Propensities --
  Feeders of the Congo or Zaire -- Obliged to refuse Presents --
  Cross the Loajima -- Appearance of People; Hair Fashions.

Chapter 23.
  Make a Detour southward -- Peculiarities of the Inhabitants --
  Scarcity of Animals -- Forests -- Geological Structure of the Country --
  Abundance and Cheapness of Food near the Chihombo -- A Slave lost --
  The Makololo Opinion of Slaveholders -- Funeral Obsequies in Cabango --
  Send a Sketch of the Country to Mr. Gabriel -- Native Information
  respecting the Kasai and Quango -- The Trade with Luba --
  Drainage of Londa -- Report of Matiamvo's Country and Government --
  Senhor Faria's Present to a Chief -- The Balonda Mode of spending Time --
  Faithless Guide -- Makololo lament the Ignorance of the Balonda --
  Eagerness of the Villagers for Trade -- Civility of a Female Chief --
  The Chief Bango and his People -- Refuse to eat Beef -- Ambition of Africans
  to have a Village -- Winters in the Interior -- Spring at Kolobeng --
  White Ants:  "Never could desire to eat any thing better" --
  Young Herbage and Animals -- Valley of the Loembwe --
  The white Man a Hobgoblin -- Specimen of Quarreling --
  Eager Desire for Calico -- Want of Clothing at Kawawa's --
  Funeral Observances -- Agreeable Intercourse with Kawawa --
  His impudent Demand -- Unpleasant Parting -- Kawawa tries to prevent
  our crossing the River Kasai -- Stratagem.

Chapter 24.
  Level Plains -- Vultures and other Birds -- Diversity of Color in Flowers
  of the same Species -- The Sundew -- Twenty-seventh Attack of Fever --
  A River which flows in opposite Directions -- Lake Dilolo the Watershed
  between the Atlantic and Indian Oceans -- Position of Rocks --
  Sir Roderick Murchison's Explanation -- Characteristics of the Rainy Season
  in connection with the Floods of the Zambesi and the Nile --
  Probable Reason of Difference in Amount of Rain South and North
  of the Equator -- Arab Reports of Region east of Londa --
  Probable Watershed of the Zambesi and the Nile -- Lake Dilolo --
  Reach Katema's Town:  his renewed Hospitality; desire to appear
  like a White Man; ludicrous Departure -- Jackdaws --
  Ford southern Branch of Lake Dilolo -- Small Fish -- Project for
  a Makololo Village near the Confluence of the Leeba and the Leeambye --
  Hearty Welcome from Shinte -- Kolimbota's Wound --
  Plant-seeds and Fruit-trees brought from Angola --
  Masiko and Limboa's Quarrel -- Nyamoana now a Widow --
  Purchase Canoes and descend the Leeba -- Herds of wild Animals on its Banks
  -- Unsuccessful Buffalo-hunt -- Frogs -- Sinbad and the Tsetse --
  Dispatch a Message to Manenko -- Arrival of her Husband Sambanza --
  The Ceremony called Kasendi -- Unexpected Fee for performing
  a surgical Operation -- Social Condition of the Tribes --
  Desertion of Mboenga -- Stratagem of Mambowe Hunters -- Water-turtles --
  Charged by a Buffalo -- Reception from the People of Libonta --
  Explain the Causes of our long Delay -- Pitsane's Speech --
  Thanksgiving Services -- Appearance of my "Braves" --
  Wonderful Kindness of the People.

Chapter 25.
  Colony of Birds called Linkololo -- The Village of Chitlane --
  Murder of Mpololo's Daughter -- Execution of the Murderer and his Wife --
  My Companions find that their Wives have married other Husbands --
  Sunday -- A Party from Masiko -- Freedom of Speech -- Canoe struck
  by a Hippopotamus -- Gonye -- Appearance of Trees at the end of Winter --
  Murky Atmosphere -- Surprising Amount of organic Life --
  Hornets -- The Packages forwarded by Mr. Moffat --
  Makololo Suspicions and Reply to the Matebele who brought them --
  Convey the Goods to an Island and build a Hut over them -- Ascertain that
  Sir R. Murchison had recognized the true Form of African Continent --
  Arrival at Linyanti -- A grand Picho -- Shrewd Inquiry --
  Sekeletu in his Uniform -- A Trading-party sent to Loanda with Ivory --
  Mr. Gabriel's Kindness to them -- Difficulties in Trading --
  Two Makololo Forays during our Absence -- Report of the Country to the N.E.
  -- Death of influential Men -- The Makololo desire to be nearer the Market
  -- Opinions upon a Change of Residence -- Climate of Barotse Valley --
  Diseases -- Author's Fevers not a fair Criterion in the Matter --
  The Interior an inviting Field for the Philanthropist -- Consultations about
  a Path to the East Coast -- Decide on descending North Bank of Zambesi --
  Wait for the Rainy Season -- Native way of spending Time during the period
  of greatest Heat -- Favorable Opening for Missionary Enterprise --
  Ben Habib wishes to marry -- A Maiden's Choice -- Sekeletu's Hospitality --
  Sulphureted Hydrogen and Malaria -- Conversations with Makololo --
  Their moral Character and Conduct -- Sekeletu wishes to purchase
  a Sugar-mill, etc. -- The Donkeys -- Influence among the Natives --
  "Food fit for a Chief" -- Parting Words of Mamire -- Motibe's Excuses.

Chapter 26.
  Departure from Linyanti -- A Thunder-storm -- An Act of genuine Kindness --
  Fitted out a second time by the Makololo -- Sail down the Leeambye --
  Sekote's Kotla and human Skulls; his Grave adorned with Elephants' Tusks --
  Victoria Falls -- Native Names -- Columns of Vapor -- Gigantic Crack --
  Wear of the Rocks -- Shrines of the Barimo -- "The Pestle of the Gods" --
  Second Visit to the Falls -- Island Garden -- Store-house Island --
  Native Diviners -- A European Diviner -- Makololo Foray --
  Marauder to be fined -- Mambari -- Makololo wish to stop
  Mambari Slave-trading -- Part with Sekeletu -- Night Traveling --
  River Lekone -- Ancient fresh-water Lakes -- Formation of Lake Ngami --
  Native Traditions -- Drainage of the Great Valley --
  Native Reports of the Country to the North -- Maps -- Moyara's Village --
  Savage Customs of the Batoka -- A Chain of Trading Stations --
  Remedy against Tsetse -- "The Well of Joy" -- First Traces of Trade
  with Europeans -- Knocking out the front Teeth -- Facetious Explanation --
  Degradation of the Batoka -- Description of the Traveling Party --
  Cross the Unguesi -- Geological Formation -- Ruins of a large Town --
  Productions of the Soil similar to those in Angola -- Abundance of Fruit.

Chapter 27.
  Low Hills -- Black Soldier-Ants; their Cannibalism --
  The Plasterer and its Chloroform -- White Ants; their Usefulness --
  Mutokwane-smoking; its Effects -- Border Territory --
  Healthy Table-lands -- Geological Formation -- Cicadae --
  Trees -- Flowers -- River Kalomo -- Physical Conformation of Country --
  Ridges, sanatoria -- A wounded Buffalo assisted -- Buffalo-bird --
  Rhinoceros-bird -- Leaders of Herds -- The Honey-guide --
  The White Mountain -- Mozuma River -- Sebituane's old Home --
  Hostile Village -- Prophetic Phrensy -- Food of the Elephant --
  Ant-hills -- Friendly Batoka -- Clothing despised -- Method of Salutation --
  Wild Fruits -- The Captive released -- Longings for Peace --
  Pingola's Conquests -- The Village of Monze -- Aspect of the Country --
  Visit from the Chief Monze and his Wife -- Central healthy Locations --
  Friendly Feelings of the People in reference to a white Resident --
  Fertility of the Soil -- Bashukulompo Mode of dressing their Hair --
  Gratitude of the Prisoner we released -- Kindness and Remarks
  of Monze's Sister -- Dip of the Rocks -- Vegetation --
  Generosity of the Inhabitants -- Their Anxiety for Medicine --
  Hooping-cough -- Birds and Rain.

Chapter 28.
  Beautiful Valley -- Buffalo -- My young Men kill two Elephants --
  The Hunt -- Mode of measuring Height of live Elephants --
  Wild Animals smaller here than in the South, though their Food
  is more abundant -- The Elephant a dainty Feeder -- Semalembue --
  His Presents -- Joy in prospect of living in Peace -- Trade --
  His People's way of wearing their Hair -- Their Mode of Salutation --
  Old Encampment -- Sebituane's former Residence -- Ford of Kafue --
  Hippopotami -- Hills and Villages -- Geological Formation --
  Prodigious Quantities of large Game -- Their Tameness -- Rains --
  Less Sickness than in the Journey to Loanda -- Reason --
  Charge from an Elephant -- Vast Amount of animal Life on the Zambesi --
  Water of River discolored -- An Island with Buffaloes and Men on it --
  Native Devices for killing Game -- Tsetse now in Country --
  Agricultural Industry -- An Albino murdered by his Mother --
  "Guilty of Tlolo" -- Women who make their Mouths "like those of Ducks" --
  First Symptom of the Slave-trade on this side -- Selole's Hostility --
  An armed Party hoaxed -- An Italian Marauder slain --
  Elephant's Tenacity of Life -- A Word to young Sportsmen --
  Mr. Oswell's Adventure with an Elephant; narrow Escape --
  Mburuma's Village -- Suspicious Conduct of his People --
  Guides attempt to detain us -- The Village and People of Ma Mburuma --
  Character our Guides give of us.

Chapter 29.
  Confluence of Loangwa and Zambesi -- Hostile Appearances --
  Ruins of a Church -- Turmoil of Spirit -- Cross the River --
  Friendly Parting -- Ruins of stone Houses -- The Situation of Zumbo
  for Commerce -- Pleasant Gardens -- Dr. Lacerda's Visit to Cazembe --
  Pereira's Statement -- Unsuccessful Attempt to establish Trade
  with the People of Cazembe -- One of my Men tossed by a Buffalo --
  Meet a Man with Jacket and Hat on -- Hear of the Portuguese and native War
  -- Holms and Terraces on the Banks of a River -- Dancing for Corn --
  Beautiful Country -- Mpende's Hostility -- Incantations --
  A Fight anticipated -- Courage and Remarks of my Men --
  Visit from two old Councilors of Mpende -- Their Opinion of the English --
  Mpende concludes not to fight us -- His subsequent Friendship --
  Aids us to cross the River -- The Country -- Sweet Potatoes --
  Bakwain Theory of Rain confirmed -- Thunder without Clouds --
  Desertion of one of my Men -- Other Natives' Ideas of the English --
  Dalama (gold) -- Inhabitants dislike Slave-buyers --
  Meet native Traders with American Calico -- Game-laws --
  Elephant Medicine -- Salt from the Sand -- Fertility of Soil --
  Spotted Hyaena -- Liberality and Politeness of the People --
  Presents -- A stingy white Trader -- Natives' Remarks about him --
  Effect on their Minds -- Rain and Wind now from an opposite Direction --
  Scarcity of Fuel -- Trees for Boat-building -- Boroma --
  Freshets -- Leave the River -- Chicova, its Geological Features --
  Small Rapid near Tete -- Loquacious Guide -- Nyampungo, the Rain-charmer --
  An old Man -- No Silver -- Gold-washing -- No Cattle.

Chapter 30.
  An Elephant-hunt -- Offering and Prayers to the Barimo for Success --
  Native Mode of Expression -- Working of Game-laws -- A Feast --
  Laughing Hyaenas -- Numerous Insects -- Curious Notes of Birds of Song --
  Caterpillars -- Butterflies -- Silica -- The Fruit Makoronga and Elephants
  -- Rhinoceros Adventure -- Korwe Bird -- Its Nest -- A real Confinement --
  Honey and Beeswax -- Superstitious Reverence for the Lion --
  Slow Traveling -- Grapes -- The Ue -- Monina's Village --
  Native Names -- Government of the Banyai -- Electing a Chief --
  Youths instructed in "Bonyai" -- Suspected of Falsehood --
  War-dance -- Insanity and Disappearance of Monahin -- Fruitless Search --
  Monina's Sympathy -- The Sand-river Tangwe -- The Ordeal Muavi:
  its Victims -- An unreasonable Man -- "Woman's Rights" --
  Presents -- Temperance -- A winding Course to shun Villages --
  Banyai Complexion and Hair -- Mushrooms -- The Tubers, Mokuri --
  The Tree Shekabakadzi -- Face of the Country -- Pot-holes --
  Pursued by a Party of Natives -- Unpleasant Threat --
  Aroused by a Company of Soldiers -- A civilized Breakfast --
  Arrival at Tete.

Chapter 31.
  Kind Reception from the Commandant -- His Generosity to my Men --
  The Village of Tete -- The Population -- Distilled Spirits --
  The Fort -- Cause of the Decadence of Portuguese Power --
  Former Trade -- Slaves employed in Gold-washing -- Slave-trade drained
  the Country of Laborers -- The Rebel Nyaude's Stockade -- He burns Tete --
  Kisaka's Revolt and Ravages -- Extensive Field of Sugar-cane --
  The Commandant's good Reputation among the Natives --
  Providential Guidance -- Seams of Coal -- A hot Spring --
  Picturesque Country -- Water-carriage to the Coal-fields --
  Workmen's Wages -- Exports -- Price of Provisions -- Visit Gold-washings --
  The Process of obtaining the precious Metal -- Coal within a Gold-field --
  Present from Major Sicard -- Natives raise Wheat, etc. --
  Liberality of the Commandant -- Geographical Information
  from Senhor Candido -- Earthquakes -- Native Ideas of a Supreme Being --
  Also of the Immortality and Transmigration of Souls -- Fondness for Display
  at Funerals -- Trade Restrictions -- Former Jesuit Establishment --
  State of Religion and Education at Tete -- Inundation of the Zambesi --
  Cotton cultivated -- The fibrous Plants Conge and Buaze --
  Detained by Fever -- The Kumbanzo Bark -- Native Medicines -- Iron,
  its Quality -- Hear of Famine at Kilimane -- Death of a Portuguese Lady --
  The Funeral -- Disinterested Kindness of the Portuguese.

Chapter 32.
  Leave Tete and proceed down the River -- Pass the Stockade of Bonga --
  Gorge of Lupata -- "Spine of the World" -- Width of River --
  Islands -- War Drum at Shiramba -- Canoe Navigation -- Reach Senna --
  Its ruinous State -- Landeens levy Fines upon the Inhabitants --
  Cowardice of native Militia -- State of the Revenue -- No direct Trade
  with Portugal -- Attempts to revive the Trade of Eastern Africa --
  Country round Senna -- Gorongozo, a Jesuit Station --
  Manica, the best Gold Region in Eastern Africa -- Boat-building at Senna --
  Our Departure -- Capture of a Rebel Stockade -- Plants Alfacinya and Njefu
  at the Confluence of the Shire -- Landeen Opinion of the Whites --
  Mazaro, the point reached by Captain Parker -- His Opinion
  respecting the Navigation of the River from this to the Ocean --
  Lieutenant Hoskins' Remarks on the same subject -- Fever, its Effects --
  Kindly received into the House of Colonel Nunes at Kilimane --
  Forethought of Captain Nolloth and Dr. Walsh -- Joy imbittered --
  Deep Obligations to the Earl of Clarendon, etc. -- On developing
  Resources of the Interior -- Desirableness of Missionary Societies
  selecting healthy Stations -- Arrangements on leaving my Men --
  Retrospect -- Probable Influence of the Discoveries on Slavery --
  Supply of Cotton, Sugar, etc., by Free Labor -- Commercial Stations --
  Development of the Resources of Africa a Work of Time -- Site of Kilimane --
  Unhealthiness -- Death of a shipwrecked Crew from Fever --
  The Captain saved by Quinine -- Arrival of H. M. Brig "Frolic" --
  Anxiety of one of my Men to go to England -- Rough Passage in the Boats
  to the Ship -- Sekwebu's Alarm -- Sail for Mauritius -- Sekwebu on board;
  he becomes insane; drowns himself -- Kindness of Major-General C. M. Hay --
  Escape Shipwreck -- Reach Home.

Appendix.  -- Latitudes and Longitudes of Positions.

Appendix.  -- Book Review in Harper's New Monthly Magazine, February, 1858.

Appendix.  -- Notes to etext.


Back to top

This work (David Livingstone, Missionary Travels) is out of copyright, but see the Project Gutenberg legal notice.